Rize: Türkiye’s Hidden Mountain Havens

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Rize Province, located on the Black Sea coast near Turkey’s northeastern border with Georgia, remains largely unknown to many international travelers. However, some of the country’s pristine alpine terrain continues to fascinate nature lovers who want to hit the road without traveling.

Away from Rize itself—the port city that gives its name to the province—the valleys and plateaus of the region, framed by soaring mountain ridges, remain largely rural. With high precipitation, the villages of Mount Rize (Yayla) Point to escape from the summer heat.

Camlihemsin is the most attractive part of Rize Province. A rural area surrounding the town of Camlihemsin, a place where nature mostly remains untouched. Simple guesthouses and cafés run by young people who left the city for simpler lives, and artists who find inspiration in the pristine tranquility lie at the heart of this district.

From the Black Sea coast, the road to Camlihemsin cuts through a mountain valley full of sparkling green, along the torrential Firtina River that descends all the way from the Kachkar Mountains.

Time seems to have stopped in this place of high alpine pastures, valleys and villages. Forestry, beekeeping and animal grazing are still the main sources of income. Here’s what to do around Çamlıhemışen.

Many of Camlihemsin’s traditional Karadeniz (Black Sea) houses, which feature timber-framed facades, now serve as family-owned guesthouses where travelers can immerse themselves in the local culture.

With no dining options in the area, they are mostly responsible for treating their guests to home cooked meals – most notably full Turkish breakfasts including local dishes. hydrolyzedA mixture of melted cheese and corn served hot with bread.

in Polly Mini Hotel A traditional Karadeniz home made of weathered chestnut wood and stone in downtown Çamlıhemşin, almost every window looks directly onto the Firtina River, as fresh air filters in through the simple white drapes in the six bedrooms. Puli Café serves creative dishes made with local ingredients, from stuffed grape leaves to… Tavada hamsili pilaf (Anchovy pilaf bread).

A little far from the city, on a mountainside, Dodi Konak It is a wonderful sight with its historical stone and wood façade that reflects Karadeniz’s historical aesthetic.

Built in the early 20th century by the Tarakçıoğlu family, who made their fortune as bakers and hoteliers in Russia, the dilapidated mansion has been meticulously restored to feature 24 modern rooms with views of the valley and beyond.

In the mountains, about an hour south of downtown Camlihemsin, Rize Yayla (Alpine villages) harbor the essence of local life and staying here is akin to visiting a family in their mountain hut.

The roads are often undeveloped and require a four-wheel drive vehicle, and the simple residences tend to be old Karadeniz houses with panoramic views from the higher elevations.

stay in Yayla For a few days to wander through the green pastures and forests, spotting wildflowers and breathing in the fresh air, is the most precious part of the Rize experience.

In the alpine village of Pokot, Zen and Ahmet Shishman have been making visitors feel like family for years in their beautiful guest house. Plato Mola. Facing the Fırtına Valley in all its undulating glory, this traditional village house has six rooms where guests are awakened to the smell of freshly baked bread and the sound of cowbells outside.

The family’s homemade meals revolve around the milk from their free-range cows and the blessings of nature all around. You’ll find fresh cream, cheese, butter, honey, jam, eggs from their own chickens, homemade bread, and produce from the garden.

In Ghetto, another village, retired couple Fatma and Ibrahim Berben decide to open their own home to guests with the belief that beauty can only multiply when shared.

their own guesthouse Son Mohikan Dağ Evi It welcomes those who crave nature with its simple rooms and balconies overlooking the mountains. In the evening, after a day spent exploring the plateau on foot, home cooked meals are served followed by small concerts by the family – who were all musicians.

One of Rize’s most stunning sights, rivaled perhaps only by the Sumela Monastery near Trabzon, Zilkale Castle suddenly appears in the middle of the valley, with the snow-capped peaks of the Kaçkar Mountains looming in the background.

The medieval castle is believed to have been built between the 14th and 15th centuries, and some historians have suggested that it was originally an Armenian church built by the Emperor of Trabzon, and then converted into a fortress by the Ottomans in the 19th century.^y a century. Either way, the inner castle – accessed via a stone walkway – has excellent views of the valley from behind the walls.

About five miles south of Camlihemsin city centre, the village of Genova has become a kind of haven for former townspeople who have returned to their Rize roots to live a simple life.

strongly contrasted with its traditional surroundings, Zoa coffee It is the only third-wave café in the village, and is run by Apo and Elif Taşkın, who moved here from Istanbul. A place for locals and visitors alike, the café serves different types of espresso with a serene view of nature. The couple is dedicated to collecting food products and crafting desserts with ingredients like elderberry, wild strawberries, and blackberries.

“We thought the quiet life in Rize would be enough for us, so we decided to live together here after we got married. Now we have a four-year-old son and a small circle of friends,” says Elif, who is originally from the area.

Although activities are limited here, being in nature creates a sense of wholeness. From the end of May until mid-October, the season for visiting alpine villages begins. We recommend staying in one of the guesthouses to truly experience the local culture and cuisine.

We also highly recommend using local guides to discover trekking routes and really experience the rich local culture. Internet maps are really not enough, and the weather can be very unpredictable. Uğur Biryol in Bokotsal Tour He is one of our most trusted mentors.”

beside Zoa, Perry Dukan Bab Azraq Bab invites you to browse a beautiful selection of Black Sea specialties with a local, sustainable and organic philosophy. Owner Deniz Demirci Tarakçı sells local honey vinegar, homemade syrups with endemic fruits and flowers, herbal teas from the Kaçkar Mountains, candles, soaps, textiles and more.

On the other side of Berry, Gencheva Cafe It is one of the few restaurants serving authentic Black Sea food. Traditional wooden house with balcony over the river, full Turkish breakfast for the café including homemade pastries, jams, spreads, cheese and olives hydrolyzed – Endless rounds of freshly made Turkish tea. Lunch and dinner dishes include local trout cooked in butter and potatoes with clotted cream, düğün kızartması (a local dish of fried meat) and cornbread with vegetables.

No more liesOne of Istanbul’s most respected street artists, he is a native of Rize, having spent every summer in the mountains since his childhood. “Peace and quiet are the essence of this place,” he says, “I had some friends from Istanbul come to visit me and they wouldn’t leave the house for days, because even the view and the quiet was enough for them—they didn’t really need anything else.”

From his office inside his home in the mountains, the artist looks out the window at an evergreen valley, often shrouded in morning mist. One of the main reasons people come here is Yayla. My favorite is Elevit Yaylası because, unlike the others, you won’t find any cafes here, the residents only have their own homes and nothing else.

“I would have avoided Ayder Yaylasi [one of the most popular villages]which unfortunately has become very crowded and touristy over the years. Alternatively, villages like Amlakit and Hazindag are worth seeing for their natural beauty.”

After living in cities like Barcelona and Istanbul, and then moving around for three years chasing plants, she is a botanical artist Ishik Juner He decided to settle in Rize in 2015, and now lives in a hut on top of a mountain in the Firtina Valley.

“I spent every summer of my childhood in Çamlıhemşin, and if you had a good childhood, memories, tastes and smells will follow you all your life,” she says.

“Here, I am surrounded by flowers, which are essential to my profession, and it is impossible not to be inspired by this place.

“The state of tourism in Rize is not very pleasant because visitors often arrive without much knowledge of the local culture or nature. They need to learn the best way to travel through the largely untouched and wild landscape, and how to respect the flora and fauna.

“I think the purpose of coming to Rize shouldn’t be to rush into everything and take some selfies. It should include staying for a while in YaylaTo really breathe the air, to soak up the scents of nature, to drink from its streams. Perhaps only then can you understand your place and become part of this amazing natural world.

Fred Yalaf Heckroth IA freelance writer based between Istanbul and Lake Constance and the author of her own guide book, 500 Hidden Secrets of Istanbul. Her writing has been published in Kinfolk, Brownbook, The Travel Almanac, Wallpaper*, Travel + Leisure, and Conde Nast Traveler.