With the Spanish Foreign Legion

At first it seemed like a rumour. A distant melody reverberates from Malaga harbor before spreading across the city district by district. Then the music picks up and the brass, cymbals and drums of the Spanish Legion enter the Plaza Fray Alonso de Santo Tomás, accompanied by applause from the thousands of spectators gathered near the Church of Santo Domingo. Since the beginning of Holy Week, the Andalusian city vibrates to the sound of cheers and processions of dozens of confraternities and religious brotherhoods that travel day and night. But today Mandi belongs to Jupiter and Street Legions.

In the whitewashed stands, the public stands. We carry the younger one at arm’s length so they can see the soldiers coming. Here, more than anywhere else in Spain, the Legion inspires respect and admiration. At the souvenir stands, T-shirts and other items bearing the image of its four tercios…